Climbing in Kamloops: An Outdoor and Indoor Guide
Imagine scaling a granite crack surrounded by forest, tackling a sunlit sports route with a stunning lake below, or testing your strength on indoor overhangs while fine-tuning your technique. Climbing is more than a sport—it’s a way to challenge yourself, connect with nature, and find your focus. In Kamloops, British Columbia, these experiences aren’t just possibilities—they’re the norm.
With its mix of technical crags, scenic climbs, and year-round options, Kamloops caters to climbers of all levels. Outdoor enthusiasts can tackle the challenging routes at Roche Lake, the laid-back climbs at The Beach, or the varied options at The Hen House. Meanwhile, indoor training facilities like Cliffside Climbing Gym keep the adventure alive regardless of the weather. This guide will take you through the top spots, essential tips, and everything you need to know to make your next climbing trip successful.
Roche Lake: A Premier Climbing Destination
Roche Lake is a favourite for climbers seeking a peaceful setting with challenging routes. The crag features 29 single-pitch routes up to 23 metres, offering a mix of moderate to advanced climbs. The rock quality is excellent, and the west-facing orientation ensures afternoon sunshine, with shaded areas appearing later in the day.
Notable Routes: Roche Lake offers grades from 5.8 to 5.12, with standout climbs like “Midnight Oil” (5.10b) and “The Verdict” (5.12a), which test both technique and endurance.
Accessibility and Amenities:
Distance: Approximately 30 minutes southeast of Kamloops.
Access: Straightforward parking and well-maintained trails.
Season: Best visited from late spring to early fall.
Facilities: No onsite amenities; bring water and snacks.
The Beach: Climbing with a View
The Beach combines climbing and scenery, overlooking Kamloops Lake. This north-facing crag is ideal for hot summer days, as the shaded rock face remains cool. Climbers enjoy well-bolted sport routes ranging from 7 to 20 metres, with fixed chain anchors for added convenience.
Why Visit: The Beach offers moderate routes with technical challenges, making it a great spot for climbers who want a mix of adventure and comfort. The lake view adds an enjoyable backdrop to every climb.
Accessibility and Amenities:
Distance: A short drive west of Kamloops.
Access: Easy road access and convenient parking near the crag.
Season: Suitable for climbing in spring, summer, and fall.
Facilities: Limited; pack essentials like water, snacks, and a first aid kit.
The Hen House: Granite Climbing East of Kamloops
Located about 40 minutes east of Kamloops, The Hen House offers granite slab and crack climbing reminiscent of Squamish. With 17 single-pitch routes up to 40 metres, it caters to climbers seeking a mix of sport and trad climbing challenges.
What to Expect: Routes range from 5.7 to 5.11, requiring gear like micro cams and larger protection. The quiet, forested surroundings create a peaceful climbing experience.
Accessibility and Amenities:
Distance: 40 minutes from Kamloops; a 4x4 vehicle is recommended for access.
Access: Forest trails lead to the climbing area.
Season: Best climbed in spring and fall for cooler temperatures.
Facilities: None; pack all necessities, including plenty of water and climbing gear.
Cliffside Climbing Gym: Indoor Training Facility
The Cliffside Climbing Gym in Kamloops is a top choice for indoor climbing. With over 60 rope routes and 100 boulder problems, the gym caters to climbers of all skill levels. Features like overhangs, aretes, and caves provide variety and challenge.
Community and Training: Cliffside offers classes, workshops, and events that foster skill development and connections within the climbing community.
Practical Info:
Location: Within Kamloops city limits.
Facilities: Equipment rentals, changing rooms, and a small retail shop.
Hours: Open year-round with flexible hours for daytime and evening climbs.
Cost: Affordable entry fees with options for day passes or memberships.
Oregon Jack Creek: Scenic Climbing Near Ashcroft
Approximately 85 kilometres west of Kamloops, Oregon Jack Creek offers a quieter climbing experience. Situated 300 metres above Kamloops Lake, it features routes ideal for beginners and moderate-level climbers.
Key Highlights: Climbs range from 5.6 to 5.9, with well-bolted routes and a relaxing environment. The elevation keeps the area breezy and comfortable in summer.
Accessibility and Amenities:
Distance: 1 hour from Kamloops near Ashcroft.
Access: Good road conditions and straightforward trail access.
Season: Summer is the most comfortable, but spring and fall are also viable.
Facilities: Minimal; pack all supplies.
Climbing Safety: Essential Tips for a Secure Experience
Climbing is an inherently risky sport, but proper precautions and planning can significantly reduce risks. Whether you’re climbing outdoors or indoors, here are essential safety considerations:
Pre-Climb Preparation
Inspect Your Gear: Check ropes, harnesses, carabiners, quickdraws, and belay devices for wear and tear. Replace any damaged equipment.
Know Your Routes: Study route descriptions and topography beforehand. Be aware of grading and potential hazards.
Pack Smart: Include essentials like a first aid kit, extra water, snacks, and weather-appropriate clothing.
During the Climb
Clear Communication: Use standard climbing commands like “On belay” and “Climbing” to coordinate with your partner.
Anchor Checks: Double-check anchors, whether fixed or trad placements, to ensure they are secure.
Pace Yourself: Climb within your ability level and take breaks as needed to maintain focus.
Environmental Awareness
Wildlife Precautions: Carry bear spray and make noise when approaching remote crags. Familiarize yourself with local wildlife risks.
Weather Monitoring: Sudden rain or wind can make routes slippery or unsafe. Check forecasts and watch for changing conditions.
Leave No Trace: Pack out all trash, avoid damaging vegetation, and stick to established trails to preserve climbing areas.
Emergency Preparedness
Know Rescue Contacts: Have the phone numbers for local emergency services saved.
Plan Exits: Familiarize yourself with exit routes in case of an injury or weather change.
First Aid Training: Consider taking a basic first aid course, especially if you frequently climb in remote areas.
By prioritizing safety, you can enjoy a rewarding climbing experience while minimizing risks to yourself and the environment.
Planning Your Climbing Trip
Essential Resources
Climb Kamloops Website: Offers free online guidebooks and updates on local climbing conditions.
Mountain Project: Provides detailed route descriptions, difficulty ratings, and user reviews.
Local Climbing Groups: Joining a group or attending meetups can provide valuable insights and connections.
Gear Recommendations
Sport Climbing: Harness, belay device, quickdraws, helmet, and rope (60m minimum).
Trad Climbing: A range of cams, nuts, and slings for protection.
Additional Items: Climbing shoes, chalk bag, and weather-appropriate clothing.
Seasonal Considerations
Spring and fall offer ideal temperatures and stable weather.
Summer can be hot, so choose shaded crags like The Beach.
Always check conditions before heading out, especially during the rainy season.
Wrapping Up Your Kamloops Climbing Adventure
Kamloops offers a wealth of climbing opportunities catering to every experience level. From the challenging routes of Roche Lake and The Hen House to the accessible crags of The Beach and Oregon Jack Creek, the diversity ensures there’s something for everyone. Indoor options like Cliffside Climbing Gym provide year-round opportunities to hone your skills.
By prioritizing safety, respecting the environment, and connecting with local resources and groups, you can make the most of your climbing experience in this dynamic region. Kamloops is more than just a climbing destination—it’s a place to push your limits, connect with nature, and enjoy the company of the climbing community. Start planning your adventure today!